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Christmas on the way to Santiago

This year was one of the worst and best years of my life. Yes, it’s possible. Once you lose something you love so much, but you are still glad you had it, it’s possible.

The weather is rainy, but not like a bit rainy with few drops here and there, it’s not even London rainy. It’s Portugal in December rainy! we started our Camino in Porto. Beautiful city, with kind people and food that climbed very high on my favourite food list. If you want plan some runaway, definitely visit Porto. Have a walk through it’s narrow, historic streets, see the bridge, and all the churches and eat! You will be amazed by all the nice handmade ceramics. It’s so nice and they are so proud of it that they have a Bank for storing the endangered ones and put it on the churches!

Other thing you cannot miss in Porto if you are a Harry Potter fan is a library which is said to have inspired J.K. Rowling.

Best bookstore ever 😍

Francesinha is typical, traditional meal from Porto! It’s not for vegans and it’s probably a heart attack on a plate, but definitely worth it! For a dessert you can have Pastel de feijão, which is baked pastry filled with vanilla pudding, one word — amazing! And anyway, almost every Pastelaria is approved and I promise you won’t leave hungry. Don’t forget their coffee! I’m not sure how famous is it, but the aftertaste of freshly roasted coffee puts it to one of my favourite coffee I have tried so far.


After we filled ourselves with the food and waterproof equipment (or at least we thought so), we started our Camino. There are around 240km pf walking till Santiago. Today is our third day coming to an end. We met only two pilgrams, and in the summer usual number of pilgrims reach up to 50 000. So that can speak for itself….

First day we struggled to pass the route as everything was flooded. But really flooded.

Waterproof things soon became wet. And on our first day we started questioning our choices to do this. Being lucky in the unlucky after 20 km we found this Albergue in Rates with very kind and one of a kind Pedro. He had a dryer and a heating which helped a lot, because all of our stuff and the clothes in backpack was full of water. Waterproof shoes, not so waterproof. It felt like I was having a small lake inside them, making small puff puff with every step. He didn’t speak English, we didn’t speak Portuguese. With a bit of Spanish and Italian and every possible hand gestures, even the tipsy, but cute german lady was able to understand.

Second day of walking was nothing better. Water from up and down. Nice thing that we had albergue alone for ourselves, without blankets and heating…there was just a small heater which we couldn’t bring to our room, but could use it to dry our stuff, because again, we were heavier for two or three kilos because of water!

Third day finishing again without blankets, smelly french guy talking to his imaginary friends and nice Christmas lights in Ponte de Lima.

Why we wanted to spent wet Christmas in we don’t even know yet?

Last Christmas I made a special wish by hanging small baby socks on tree with paper inside asking only for one stuff. Probably, I was not clear enough, I wanted that stuff for the rest of my life, here with me, with us. Instead she was there only 9 days and we never heard her voice. Now, the Christmas is the most cheerful time of the year. She was supposed to have her first Christmas tree, her first gifts. My last Christmas wish stole a bit of every Christmas we will ever have. And it’s not that we hate Christmas, we don’t wanna punish ourselves. We were punished enough, for the rest of our life. It’s that we wanna solitude somehow. Even if we are doing it together. I miss that christmasy atmosphere, with family and stacks of different food on table. Presents all around and everybody loving everyone, even if the other 364 days of the year they don’t speak to each other. I will miss it even if I will have all the friends and family over, I will not have the most important.

In this way we keep on walking. Stretch our mind far. Don’t cut our thoughts when uncomfortable. Put our body over limits, and talk, talk to ourselves, talk to God, talk to her. We do laugh, against all odds. We find the most unusual things funny. We put our imagination back to the unknown. We don’t suffer from the overweighted backpack, not even from pouring rain.

We suffer from inside.

We try to release and forgive.

We love you ljubav (wish us good luck with weather, 7 more days to go),

Mom and Dad

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